My aboriginal appointment with the acclaimed Four Seas restaurant was on September 28, 1978. For my 21st rtay, I appointed a table for cafeteria and asked my , a adolescent apprentice in the appearance architecture affairs at Pars, to accompany me. It was a Indian summer day, and I bethink that she wore a abounding cream-colored cast dress and stiletto-heeled sandals.
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We were apparent to a table in “Siberia"—up on the balustrade of the Grill Room—but it afforded us a absolute appearance of the iconic New York ality cafeteria occurring on the capital attic below. There, bodies with aftermost names like Kissinger, Newhouse, Ricoff, and Tisch were accepting aside conversations and acrimonious at their plates. I was bugged by the bouncing alternation curtains and the midcentury majesty of the room. It all acquainted so developed up in a hushed, affluent way. We both had hamburgers and algid tea, and the ll basically maxed out my - acclaim d.
Over the after decades, I alternate for s’ g rtays, a few book pies and alike a , forth with a brace of aboriginal date drinks and, remarkably, my own bells cerny dinner.
It all acquainted so developed up in a hushed, affluent way.
My aftermost absolute meal there was a quiet little cafeteria to bless my babyish ’s marriage. And then, like Brigadoon, it was gone. Of adce I’ve been to the innation, The Grill, and it was fine—even mrable. But for me, icle was missing. The hushed gravitas and lessness of the aboriginal restaurant had aly been eradicated in favor of a added bouncy bravado. It’s lessly a altered place. So I was absorbed to appointment the crude Four Seas the ent it opened.
Lightening never strikes the aforementioned abode twice. How could the Four Seas anytime alive up to the one, accustomed its aboriginal trifecta of Mies der Rohe, Philip ohn and the Huxtables? (Architecture, autogenous architecture and tabletop gn, respectively). The absoluteness is: it doesn’t. But ertive things lessly can’t or shouldn’t be duplicated.
While the amplitude isn’t about as majestically soaring, it’s appealing swanky, and absolutely added approachable—dare I say “user ly?” The absolute logo is there, not aloof on the building’s façade but now imprinted on absorng disposable bolt cocktail napkins that breach off a roll. A caked close aperture whooshes accessible like icle out of Star Wars. Accoutrement are fashionably low, but not uncomfortably so, and the bar is welcoming.
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Yes, the abominable ulian Nicolini is there, too, admitting ashamed and antic brownish covering sneakers with his accepted bourgeois suit. So far, so good.
The benders are abrupt and gracious, corralled aural a ample alveolate square, and the glware feels… familiar. It’s attenuate and anxiously considered, absolutely with a nod to the aboriginal Huxtable pieces. There is a abundant accord of copse and bottle and a audible buzz. And I charge admit, I adulation a barstool that swivels. The belvedere is staffed by adorable bodies smly dressed in , all smiling. There isn’t an ounce of affectation in this innation.>
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