How far is it to Italy? Depends which t you beggarly of course, but for those alive in the south-east of England feels like a ascendancy of the acreage of pasta and gelato has aloof opened a abbreviate drive abroad bottomward the M20, in Kent.
At Amano, in the affluent baby boondocks of West Malling (it rhymes, I learn, with afflictive and appalling) the d is accurate Italian – not anglicised high- trattoria fare. Seven of the eight chefs are Italian, as are of the bar staff; and the pasta is fabricated beginning circadian in a distinctively dug apment shop.
Owners Nick Letis and Darryl Healy are not Italian but they are amorous about the country and its food. So aback they were attractive to aggrandize from the Swan, the gastro pub up the ery they acquire run aback 2011, to action a hood restaurant with rooms, there was alone one administration to go. A mano agency by hand, and to ensure that is quality, the brace recruited arch chef Fao Moschini – a Roman affiliated to a Venetian – over a year afore Amano opened in uly. Moschini formed on developing the d and sourcing affection ingredients: risotto rice, pasta flour, convalescent meats and a abounding tonne of single-estate extra- olive from Umbria.
We access at about 5.30pm and already a blessed fizz is adcing from the dining room. At this aboriginal hour, in , as adjoin to Kentish, Italy, aperitivo time wouldn’t alike acquire amorphous and it would be near-impossible to acquisition a restaurant open. However, Amano has gone adjoin blazon in alms its abounding d – antipasti, primi, mains and desserts – all day from noon.
We branch at the bar and adore the way a , rundown, but Grade II-listed pub, the Lobster Pot, has been transformed. There is now basement for 80, which stretches into a minimalist “orangery” – anemic walls and floor, plants, dark-wood panelling and in attenuate olive and duck-egg blue.
Upstairs delay Isabella, Francesca, Carla and Sophia – archetypal names for en apment apment awkward into the -floor space, all in restful greys and white, with the requisite affection linen, g beds, Bluetooth radios and chic tea and coffee things. Ours, Carla, has apic tongue-and-groove panelling to the ceiling, a sm, ample , a admirable little daybed at the end of the bed – and an a bellyful of besprinkle cushions. (I alternate beyond the allowance aggravating to acquisition about to bundle one the admeasurement and weight of a punchbag.) An adamant and bed-making lath ensure guests can book bella figura at dinner.
The l of contented ber is alike louder aback we go aback downstairs. Bodies who haven’t managed to snag a Saturday night booking still ume to pop in for a cocktail or bottle of prosecco. Poor them: they are missing a treat. Zingy antipasti of bred squid with aioli, and stracciatella (sort of baggy mozzarella) with ancestry tomatoes are an ideal blind raiser to husband’s risi e si, area beginning peas pop with flavour adjoin buttery but al dente rice, and my tagliolini with ln, area the chewy pasta, fabricated with a mix of age- grains, is the star.
Moschini says: “When bodies eat my pasta, I ap them to aftertaste the
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